It seems my peers have chosen to write about our adventures in Seoul in a rather serious manner. And for that reason, I hope you won’t mind that I’ve chosen to speak more casually and frankly about my experiences in Seoul.

I’ll admit, I didn’t know much about Korea before coming to study in Seoul. But I also don’t feel like I experienced much culture shock. Maybe it’s because I’m familiar with Eastern culture through my studies at USC, or maybe it’s just because I adapt well (ha-ha). When I looked over our schedule before departure, I had no conception of where these places were or what they entailed. I knew a little Korean from my friends, but not nearly enough to get around. I felt nervous about being able to communicate and navigate an unfamiliar city.

I was surprised to find so many non-Korean restaurants around the Hongdae and Shinchon area. I’m not sure why I was surprised, necessarily…

I had ridden a subway before, so the act itself didn’t bother me. But because I didn’t know anything about the geography of Seoul, I was gripped rather hard by my fear of disorientation. I checked, double-checked, even triple-checked the maps before boarding; my eyes nervously flickering between the moving map and my USC friends. Though after I made my first trip to Myeongdong solo, I started to feel more confident riding the subway.

If there were one thing I had to pick out from Seoul as my number one, it would have to be the public transportation. It’s very affordable—to the extent of being considered “cheap,” often only around 1,000-won, or maybe 1,200-won for a trip across the city. To give you an idea of how ridiculously inexpensive this is: it costs $2.50 in Hawaii to ride the bus one-way. Taxis are also much cheaper here, and infinitely more abundant. I don’t believe I’ve ever seen an empty taxi driving around in Hawaii (save for the more tourist areas), whereas you could probably catch a taxi anywhere in Seoul. The 50,000-won travel allowance we were given so graciously by our sponsors was more than enough to go wherever we wanted, whenever.

I may pretend to like Korean food, but I secretly dislike many of the dishes. Too spicy, too salty, too fishy, too many onions… the reasons go on and on. I later discovered that much of the “Korean” food served in the states isn’t really what the food is like. I was pleasantly surprised at how much I genuinely enjoyed most of the dishes served here. Though, I did have a couple bowls of jjolmyeon (spicy, chewy noodles) that were so spicy I cried. Did I mention how ridiculously affordable food is here? Well, relative to the US. I would say on average I would be willing to pay up to $10 for a bibimbap, though you can find good bibimbap in Seoul for just around 6,000-won (just over $5). I’ve become so accustomed to reasonably priced goods that I’m reluctant to go back to the states now! I find myself saying bottles of water are too expensive when they’re priced at 700-won (around $0.60), when I would have easily shelled out $3 for the same bottle in the states.

In any case, in the last two weeks of our trip I discovered my new favorite food: sundubu. If you’re not familiar with sundubu, it’s basically a Korean stew made with various meats or vegetables (even mandoo!), and soft tofu. The sundubu specialty restaurants give you rice in a stone pot, which gets crispy and delicious. I do believe I made all of my friends go with me at least twice while I was here… Not going to lie, though. The other day I had a huge craving for “American” food, so I spent about an hour searching for the new McDonald’s in Myeongdong.

Shifting gears now, let’s talk about kpop. It’s everywhere! Billboards, posters, playing in stores, playing on boats on the Han River. I wouldn’t call it weird, but I’m not sure how to describe it, either. Don’t get me wrong—I loved it. I loved seeing life-size TOP cutouts and billboards and posters everywhere. I’ve never been a place where kpop has been so easily accessible.

However, I was surprised to hear that many Korean college students are in fact not fans of kpop… though I suppose I feel silly now for assuming universal love of idol groups. Sometimes I get weird looks or questions when I publicly listen to kpop in the states, but here I felt no shame singing along to Big Bang or 2NE1! And it felt amazing!

I’m not sure when it happened, or how, but I’ve become much more conscious of my looks. I was surprised the first time I saw a girl shamelessly checking her makeup in the elevator mirror in front of me, and I used to laugh when I saw girls taking pictures of themselves in public places but I’ve been eating crow now for a while; I catch myself comfortably doing all these things. I don’t think it’s a bad thing though, necessarily. It’s just a different culture.

I’m very sad to be leaving Seoul tonight. It’s been unbelievably fun and our trip has very much exceeded my expectations. I was fortunate enough to get tickets to 2NE1’s Global Tour concert last night. YG didn’t allow any photographs to be taken during the concert, but I tried to get a few near the beginning. Halfway through the concert, a man sitting in the row behind me was asked to leave because he was taking photos. The security officials went as far as erasing all of the pictures he took on his phone.

Something I really appreciated about 2NE1’s concert was the fact that it started relatively on time, and there wasn’t an hour of openers I had never heard of. I went to the SM Town concert in LA a couple years ago and that one had about an hour of unknown singers to start. I was so happy and actually started crying when 2NE1 started singing their first song, 내가 제일 잘 나가 (I am the Best). I surprised myself at how many of the lyrics I knew, and was so sure I was going to lose my voice from singing along with them. 2NE1 is one of my favorite groups, as you may have gathered. I’m so thankful and happy that I got to see them in person. I wouldn’t trade this experience for anything.

So in summary, the food was amazing, transportation was infinitely more efficient and affordable than that of the states, and 2NE1 was amazing. I definitely want to come back to Korea sometime, whether for leisure or business, I couldn’t care less!

Footnote: The search for Rilakkuma!

If you’re not familiar with Rilakkuma, he’s a teddy bear character created by San-x (a branch of Sanrio), and my favorite character. Rilakkuma merchandise is much more expensive and hard to find in the states, so when I found out I was coming to Korea, I set aside a special allowance for the purchase of my beloved Rilakkuma items.

But little did I know, Rilakkuma is almost as hard to find here as it is in the states! My friend knew of a store somewhere in Seoul that sold a lot of Rilakkuma merchandise, but he refused to tell me where it was until the last week of my trip (so that I didn’t spend all my money at once). I went around asking everyone if they had heard of Rilakkuma and if they knew where to find him. Professor, Lucy, and our tour guides had no idea what Rilakkuma was, so it seemed I was on my own for this one.

The first weekend in Seoul, I got lucky at a kiddy store around Ehwa. It was late, and after a night of shopping and exploring Idae, we were all tired. On the way back to the dorms, there was this little store on the corner with a Rilakkuma plush in the window. I went in not expecting to find much, but bam! There they were, calling to me. The squirrel Rilakkumas were limited edition a couple years back and were impossible to find in the states. I felt the warm glow of Rilakkuma happiness for days after. You may think I’m crazy, but there are people who feel this way about kpop celebrities. They actually go and stake out their houses… I think creeping on people is crazier than loving a stuffed animal, let’s be real.

This week, our group visited a living and breathing historical museum: the Korean Folk Village! The Korean Folk Village is a recreation of a traditional village from the late Chosun Dynasty. It preserves the past and promotes a feeling of authenticity by allowing visitors to experience what it would have been like to actually live in the village and walk through the streets of the Chosun Dynasty period. As soon as we walked into the Village, we were greeted with red and blue flags that signified a warm and welcoming gesture.

Posters of historical dramas and movies that had been filmed at the Korean Folk Village were everywhere.  It was easy to see that Hallyu clearly has a great effect on the structure of the Folk Village.  It was interesting to note how Hallyu, the symbol of Korean popular culture, has even extended into the context of the historical representation of Korea through media.

The contrast of modern tourists with this traditional village that has been frozen in time paralleled the film our group had viewed before going to the Korean Folk Village.  Our class had just watched김씨 표류기 (Castaway on the Moon)—a film that juxtaposes the money-crazed and socially corrupt lifestyle of present-day Korea against the nostalgic air of the simpler times in the past.  The desire of the people of Korea to preserve the memory of this time period in a very realistic and tangible form shows the fascination and sensationalized view of the past ways of life.

All in all, the trip to the Korean Folk Village was so much fun.  We were able to experience all the exciting aspects of old-time Korea like a tightrope walker and traditional horse shows.  This was definitely one of our more fun tours.  I wanted to look around even more, but we didn’t have enough time!  Hopefully I’ll be able to come back in a couple of years!

by Anna Pazderski

The first thing that triggered my interest in South Korea was its dance scene. While Korea is known for its Hallyu stars who dance to their songs, I have also heard praise for its break-dancing scene and hip hop world. So, when I came to Korea, one of the first things I wanted to do was somehow take part in this side of Korea.

I took classes for two weeks at a studio called EZ Dance, right next to Ewha University. I will remember my experience there for the rest of my life. It was unlike any other. The whole process was unique from the start, from my friend helping by being a translator to entering the studio and needing to put on slippers.

In my past experience, classes in studios are usually conducted once a week. In my experience, in hip hop, my teachers usually taught us a dance to a different song every class. In jazz it was similar, or we just worked on technique. However, in Korea, the class were conducted 2-3 times a week, and the choreography for the same song is built and worked on for the whole week. If you missed one of the days earlier in the week, you either had to play catch-up or not come to class for the rest of the week. When my friend (and translator) and I first came to the studio, this was very shocking for me. I thought I would only come once, or maybe twice a week for class, but the number of days in a week was shocking. It created a need for more dedication. I had to build my schedule around the classes to get the most out of them that I could.

In addition, I was amused by, but really loved the choice in classes: hip hop, k-pop hip hop, k-pop, and jazz. I had never seen such a choice of classes before. Because of the limited time I had left in Korea, I ended up taking around 7 classes a week. I took mainly two “classes,” k-pop hip hop and jazz.

As I watched the class being conducted on the first day, the use of Korean and English was interesting. The teachers would switch between Korean and English when counting or directing movements, and they would use both songs from Korea and the US.

Even though I could not communicate very well to the students or teachers, I still feel like I made a strong connection. Every day I attended class they greeted me with a smile and “An nyoung ha seh yo,” which means hello. My hip hop teacher would always do a happy wave whenever she saw me, and it made me so glad to be there. Learning k-pop dances from her were interesting because she would do the really cutesy girl dances with a lot of swag. It was amazing and made it very fun. It was also a challenge listening to the songs and trying to later find them online. Eventually, when I couldn’t find a song, I learned the phrase, “What is the name of this song?”

My jazz class made me feel very nostalgic for my old jazz classes. The place was foreign, the music too, but the movements were like old friends. The teacher was very sweet, and the class was intense. We did not work on technique, but instead worked mainly on choreography. Despite barely knowing me, she still would push me in class to work harder. Because of nervousness I would try to stand in the back of the class, but she would push me front and center.

Both classes made me very comfortable. Language is not very needed in a dance class. A lot of the time the k-pop hip hop teacher didn’t use words, but instead would annunciate dance moves with “hoy, hoy, hoy,” bringing out a snicker from the students and herself. At those times, even though I did not understand what she was saying, her movements and voice communicated a pretty clear picture.

My last day I learned the phrase, “I am leaving tomorrow” in Korean. I said it to both teachers, and they both expressed sadness to see me go. They both asked if they would see me again, maybe next year. I miss them a lot, and I really hope to someday see them again!

Last week, we went to the National Museum of Contemporary Art. Compared to the National Museum of Korea, which we visited our first week, the tour we received this time was very short and incomplete. We only viewed some works in the photography collection, but I enjoyed it nonetheless. The exhibition was on Images of Silence and its four themes were: desolate landscapes, space of absence, absence of communication, and death—eternal silence. As we went through the gallery, the more dark and eerie the subjects of the photographs became. In a way, these photographs of silence seemed to be a reminder of how Korea has constantly been silenced during the past century of colonization, intervention, and dictatorial rule.

To start off this week, our last week in Korea, we visited the N Seoul Tower. Used as a communication and observation tower, it is located at Namsan, or South Mountain, in Seoul. It is commonly know as the Namsan Tower or simply Seoul Tower. When we arrived, I was surprised to see a banner over the entrance saying that the Tower was voted the #1 tourist attraction in Seoul. It led me wonder why it was and made me anticipate the tour even more.

We took an elevator up to the observation deck. Instead of focusing on the view of the Seoul landscape outside the windows lining the walls, I could not help but be distracted by the gift shop flagrantly in the middle of the deck. Next to it there was a postcard station to write postcards and send them in a mailbox. On another floor there was a cosmetics shop, and on the ground floor, there was another gift shop, which even sold K-pop goods.

Next to the Tower, we walked along the Tower fence where there were thousands of colorful hanging padlocks. This fence is a famous part of the Tower as a tourist site. For years, couples have been placing locks on the fence with written messages of love, and then throwing the keys away. Hence, these locks symbolize the hope for eternal love, and Seoul is presented as a city of love.

The Tower fence was familiar to us because it was in a few scenes in the recent Thai film Hello Stranger that we watched in class. A romantic comedy set in Seoul, the film was partially funded by the Korean National Tourism Organization (KNTO). While the movie was a satire on Thai citizens’ obsession with Korean dramas, in the end, Korea was portrayed as a space where Korean-drama-esque love can actually be fulfilled.

Jeju Island was definitely one of the highlights on our program. Everyone was excited to see the paradise of the east, and once we got off the plane we were pleasantly surprised with SUN!

This sustainable volcanic island had been a tourist hotspot—especially for honeymooners—for a long time. On our way to our hotel we saw countless hotels, hostels, motels, etc. My Korean aunt told me after Japan’s tsunami incident, a huge influx of tourists had been flowing into Jeju. On our trip we especially saw a lot of Chinese tourists–many of the souvenir vendors were fluent in Chinese as well.

Upon our arrival, we were introduced to Dolhareubang (old grandfather stone statues), the official mascot of Jeju. You could see a characterized version everywhere..on posters, banners, and more! It is said that if you rub the nose of the statue, you will be blessed with a son.

We started the trip off with a history lesson. We visited the April 3 Peace Park, a project dedicated to the tragic incident of April 3rd in Jeju. The 4.3 Incident was a massacre resulting from the political strife between the authorities, especially the police, and the civilians of Jeju during Korea’s unstable time after the country’s independence from Japan. The museum was filled with art and history dedicated to commemorating the victims.

The most striking quote from the museum was “Isolated by the sea, Jeju was a massive prison and killing field.” It was hard to believe an island marketed to be a paradise had so much pain and suffering in its history.

Before we left for Jeju, we watched a movie filmed at the site called “The Uprising.” The movie featured the breathtaking sights of Jeju as well as the history and unique culture of the island people. The movie highlighted Jeju’s beautiful pastoral scenery by centering the story around a messenger, allowing the viewer to travel all over Jeju with the main character.

Like the character, we walked, hiked and conquered the famous landmarks throughout the whole trip. Although it was exhausting at times, the breathtaking views were always worth it in the end.

One thing I also noticed about Jeju was that the competition for the tourists’ attention was fierce. Unlike the traditional blatant celebrity endorsements, you could see vendors using screenshots of korean variety shows featuring their restaurant or pictures of owners with celebrities trying their product, which created a local, more authentic feel. These celebrities weren’t glammed up like in professional ad campaigns, but were in everyday casual clothing. Perhaps this day-to-day portrayal of celebrities is more attractive to tourists, who want to feel close to the human side of stars. The Korean reality show “1 Night 2 Days” was especially popular. Screenshots were displayed in some of the restaurants we ate at as well as some landmarks we visited. It was interesting to see a hole in the wall stand still investing in a marketing stand that featured all the celebrity stops.

The food at Jeju was the best I had so far. The most memorable were the stone pot abalone and seafood soup, black pig, and green tea ice cream from the Osulluc tea museum. It’s always great to end with pictures of food…so enjoy!

Friday, July 13^th—Our tour today was slightly different. Much of our tours so far focused on viewing various locations in Korea, such as the urban Seoul and rural Kangwon Province. We also gazed our eyes upon ancient artifacts and art in museums and galleries. However, the tour today shed light on one of the most discussed political issue of today: the North and South Korean divide. On Friday the 13^th, we took a trip up to the Demilitarized Zone (known as the DMZ) and Panmunjom, where we were able to see the Joint Security Area (JSA) under strict surveillance of our tour guide, as well as American and Korean soldiers.

The tour started with a rather surprising appearance by a small, middle-aged woman who the tour guide introduced as a North Korean defector. She was present at the tour to provide us with answers that we might have about North Korea. The lady explained to us that she defected with several members of her family as they found no hope left in the North; they first fled to China, then to Thailand, before arriving in South Korea and legally obtaining citizenship there (which, according to the tour guide, can be obtained by defectors after months of investigation and an education period). We were most shocked when we found out that she had left her husband in the North; her husband was a government official, which made it even more risky for him to defect. Unfortunately, she had lost all contact with her husband after the North Korean authorities took him into custody. She has no idea if he is alive or not to this day.

As the tour guide explained, there are about 8 million Koreans who are separated from their families due to the divide—the guide herself explained that her father’s family could not flee to the South and thus remained in the North. Due to the lack of communication methods between the two sides, her family is still unaware if her father’s family is still alive in North Korea. This appearance of the North Korean defector and a tour guide who was personally affected by the divide definitely changed the tone of the tour to a rather more serious one, as we were confronted by the fact that many Koreans who lead ordinary lives are affected by such political strife between the two sides.

Much of the tour was, in my opinion, hybridized to portray the border as rather calm. As I conversed with others, it became clear that we were all extremely surprised how ordinary and unmilitaristic much of the things seemed before arriving to the DMZ and Panmunjom. The Dorasan station, which connected the two railroads between North and South Korea and once was under operation, was very modern and clean; the tour guide emphasized that the station will definitely be used if reunification were to happen in the near future, shedding a light of hope upon the abandoned train station.

In addition, we were also taken to visit the Third Infiltration Tunnel, which was created by the North Koreans in order to secretly infiltrate Seoul. Like at many places of importance near the border, photography was not allowed. We were boarded on a small train that took us down about 240 feet below the ground, much like a rollercoaster ride. The tunnel had a rather extensive museum, where we viewed a short movie about the history behind the tunnel. It clearly stressed multiple attempts by the North Koreans to infiltrate into the South through multiple tunnels, as well as other incidents—such as the Axe Murder Incident and the Soviet Defection Incident—that have occurred at the JSA, resulting in gunfire exchanged between the two sides. To me, it seemed as if the movie was made to make tourists feel fearful and anxious towards the North. However, the movie suddenly changed tone as it proclaimed the possibility of talks between the two sides, as well as hopes for future reunification. The tour at the tunnel and its short movie were thus extremely conflicting—the hybridization of the ride down to the tunnel brought about feelings of excitement, like the ones felt on amusement park rides; while the tunnel was made by the North Koreans in attempts to infiltrate the South, feelings of anxiety, nervousness, and fear hardly crossed my mind as we descended down the tunnel. The museum appeared as if it wanted the tourists to be engrained with negative images of the North, but also proclaimed that future reunification was desirable.  The hybridization has made the two aforementioned locations rather conflicting; everything looked so peaceful, calm, and exciting, while parts of the tour obviously tried to engrain into our minds the dangerous characteristics of North Korea. However, we were soon made to feel unhybridized, true anxiety as we approached the DMZ and Panmunjom.

The Joint Security Area, located in Panmunjom at Camp Bonifas, is a military base shared by the American and Korean soldiers under United Nations authority. Here, the tour guides became even more emphatic about the fact that we were to obey every order that our American soldier escort gave us. Our passport was checked thoroughly multiple times. We were taken into the visitor center where we signed an agreement form that we were to obey orders and were responsible for all our actions. In addition, we were made to view a PowerPoint on historical incidents of defectors running across the border at JSA, creating unnecessary instability and even resulting in shootings and victims from both the North and South—clearly they wanted to get the point across that one person could provoke the North and seriously harm—even kill—innocent soldiers and visitors alike.

At this point, realization struck that we were actually at JSA, at an area that could easily turn unstable if one side provoked the other.  The first part of the tour definitely did not prepare us for such sudden realization. For the first time in our lives, North Korea was within a few feet from us; we were visible to them and vice versa, as a North Korean soldier periodically scrutinized us through his binoculars. Our feelings of shock and anxiety reached its climax as we went inside the conference room, where we were able to technically cross over to the North Korean side of the room. Yet the whole tour of the JSA—from getting into the room, to lining up in 2 lines, to taking pictures only at certain locations at a given time—made us realize that the tension between the two sides was very much real. We realized at this point that this was, obviously, not like any other tour we’ve had so far.

Our tour of JSA was preceded by a film viewing of JSA: Joint Security Area in our class, as well as a tour of the movie’s Panmunjom sets in the Namyangju Studios. In the end, the two locations—the fake JSA set and the actual JSA location—were completely incomparable.  The set in Namyangju Studios was very well constructed to mimic the real JSA in Panmunjom, but in the end, it was not the materialistic aspects of the site that allowed us to understand the political tension and instability that is portrayed in the film JSA—it was the whole process of getting to the location, learning what behaviors are acceptable, as well as seeing live soldiers patrolling the area that allowed us to better understand the political tension that grasped the film. They may have called the DMZ a Demilitarized Zone, but in reality, it was one of the most heavily militarized locations in the world, with both North and South Korea posting their soldiers and weapons at the border, ready for an attack. Tensions run deep between the two sides to this day; while an armistice has been signed, the Korean War is not over. Only time will tell if the two sides can be reunified, especially in our lifetime.

Nestled on over 300 acres of quiet land on the outskirts of Seoul, the KOFIC Namyangju Studios (남양주종합찰영소) is the center of South Korean film production today. Like many of the other sites we have visited in South Korea, the Namyangju Studios is a proud testimony to both the rich history and bright future of the South Korean film industry. While its museum and set exhibits attest to the great achievements of the South Korean film industry so far, the sound of painting and hammering on new film sets is a reminder of the many great productions that are yet to come.

Unlike other places we have visited in Seoul where guides have had to share with us stories and history to help us realize the significance of each site, the Namyangju Studios spoke for itself. As we toured the outdoor sets of the JSA, a traditional small Korean village, and the Choson Dynasty’s royal living quarters, then later the indoor special effects filming room, Film Culture Museum Center, and Props and Costume Room, we were able to see and experience for ourselves the significant role of the Studio in the rapidly growing Korean film industry. Of the exhibits we visited, the JSA set and the Culture Museum were perhaps most notable.

The Namyangju Studios complex is home to the famous set used in the 2000 film J.S.A.: Joint Security Area (JSA). Scaled to 80% of the original site, the JSA set is almost an identical replica of the real DMZ’s (De-Militarized Zone) Joint Security Area in Panmunjeom (판문점). Although cardboard cut-outs of soldiers posing in the middle of the JSA create a comical scene, it is still eerie to stand on the steps of the recreated North Korean Panmon Hall and overlook the JSA from the “forbidden” side. While the soldiers and threat of danger are absent from Namyangju’s JSA set, there is still a solemnity and tension that lingers in the atmosphere here. After watching JSA (2000) and visiting the real Joint Security Area in Panmunjeom, we are also able to better appreciate the freedom of walking on both sides of the Military Demarcation Line (MDL) that divides North and South Korea. Although the set is considered a front region because it is a tourist attraction, understanding the history of the JSA let us experience the tour of the set with a feeling of authenticity that is not usually common for front regions.

At Namyangju we also walked through the Film Culture Museum. Here, the exhibit was dedicated to four key figures in Korean film history: Jimi Kim (김 지미), Jeong Soon Hwang (황 정순), Sang Ok Sheen (신 상옥), and Hyun Mok Yu (유 현목)—“The Gorgeous Actress,” “The Great Actress,” “The Great Cineaste,” and The Great Film Director,” respectively. The museum traced the courses of their lives, sharing stories of their struggles, triumphs, and achievements. However, unlike the enshrined objects from the film April Snow (2005) at places like Bae Yong Joon’s (배 용준) Palace Hotel, the objects on display at the Film Museum give a more personal glimpse into the lives of those being honored. At Namyangju, newspaper clippings about Sang Ok Sheen’s kidnapping and escape from North Korea hang on the museum walls; Jimi Kim’s everyday dresses and shoes are preserved in the display cases; and display posters explain the political and social impact each person had on Korean history. The exhibit is dedicated to the legacy of their lives, not to the characters they famously created or portrayed. While a fan may experience temporary excitement after touching the slippers Bae Yong Joon wore at Palace Hotel, a visitor to the Film Culture Museum leaves with a deeper understanding of the progress made in Korean film history and specific people involved in its growth.

On a day where the outdoor sets are open to tourists and a Beatles soundtrack plays from the speakers nestled in the trees lining the complex, the Namyangju Studios may seem like a front region of tourism where the country and tour guides are trying to present the studio as one comparable to those of Hollywood, in both ability and prestige. And while that may be true, after walking around the JSA set and watching workers construct sets for next year’s new releases, Namyangju seems very much like a back region to the films that the studio produces—the glamour is stripped away from hit films and we are able to see the nitty gritty work that must be done to create masterpieces like JSA.

Nonetheless, whether we experience the Korean films through the big screen or through its raw sets, it is clear that South Korea has great potential in the film industry. Whether it chooses to reveal to us the front region or the debatable back region, South Korea achieves what it sets out to do. It proves that it has made significant progress in the film industry and still has much more to contribute in the future. As its film industry grows, so does its prestige in the global arena.

Departure to Kangnung

This weekend we packed up to head to Kangwon province, the Mecca of hallyu tourism. This trip constituted the film and drama themed portion of our itinerary.

After many rainy hours on the bus, our first stop was at this posh hotel restaurant called “Abbey Road” at the base of Seorak mountains.  As one could guess, the menu is named after Beatles songs and the décor reflected a modern take on British interior design with framed pictures of the most famed albums of the 60’s/70’s British Rock era. Some people mentioned the identity crisis of the place, noting how it is a British-themed, seafood pasta restaurant in the middle of rural South Korea. This could be a result of local and international interests of Korea clashing at once. During the course of the trip, I have noticed how there is rampant physical idolatry of famous figures. Everywhere we go, the face of a Korean pop star cannot be avoided. Even at this rurally located restaurant/hotel, they had gold-framed pictures of famous Koreans who have stayed at their hotel for others to admire. In this particular case, the local cuisine of the area was mostly seafood, creating the strange result we were presented with. Perhaps because I was expecting to eat more traditional Korean food, especially considering we were nowhere near Seoul, I was a bit puzzled but I would learn it wouldn’t be the last time I’d feel that way. The arbitrary thematization of rural locations was disorienting, and at times conflicted with my own expectations of particular destinations.

Despite hopes that the rain would shift away, when we arrived at Mt. Seoraksan, it was pouring. Even with a rain jacket and an umbrella, I ended up with soaked legs and shoes. Our portion of the tour involved us taking a cable car up since it was the second highest mountain in South Korea. Within our car, there were both elders and young children anxiously anticipating going up the mountain. Before we left the station of the cable car, we were greeted by another huge billboard of 2PM happily prancing in outdoor gear. It seemed rather out of place to have a random advertisement in a natural setting and forced me to compare it to the many ads we have seen in Seoul.

To be quite frank, I don’t think much would have prepared me for the hike up the mountain. With heavy fog, and rain flooding over most of the stepping stones, I could barely look at my surroundings if I didn’t want to end up on my face (most especially when coming back down). Once we got to the top, I was so relieved to finally make it and breathe the crisp air, yet I was somewhat disappointed because we couldn’t see very much due to the fog. But that’s the gamble that you take when visiting natural spaces; nature isn’t going to move out of the way for tourism.

Afterwards, we visited the Junmunjin fish market with live octopus in small buckets for sale under shanty tents. Although this part of Korea isn’t perhaps what comes to mind as part of its international identity, it’s the heart of much of Korea’s cuisine and economy.

For the final portion of the day, we trudged over the Seongyojang house which resembled in structure buildings we had seen at Kyongbok Palace. The tour guide had informed us that this house was originally for a very rich family of the yangban class which included four generations at once. There were separate living quarters for males and females. I just particularly remembered those two tidbits because those facts are still somewhat embedded into the social and cultural structure of Korea, where multiple generations commonly live in the same house and males and females are generally forbidden from living in the same room unless married.

Over the weekend, we visited the Haslla Art World, where a movie had just been filmed. First, we explored the outdoor sculpture park, which I thoroughly enjoyed. With the backdrop of the ocean in the background, we ventured through a forest with many oddities such as statues of pregnant women, tree branches that were not alive but colored and hanging from the tree and many other things, which can be seen in the pictures. There seemed to be a theme of mimicry of reality. I really enjoyed this portion of the trip because art is an experience of which each individual can have his or her own unique interpretation.

Afterwards, we visited the Pinnochio exhibit, which fashioned many marionettes of Pinnochio and eerie counterparts that presumably would have been in the shop as well.

At night, we stayed at the hotel where April Snow was filmed. Even if you had never seen the movie, it was quite evident that Bae Yong Joon, the protagonist of the movie, was some figure of importance in this hotel as you are greeted with a cardboard cutout of him and a glass encased structure of pictures/memorabilia that highlight Bae Yong Joon (even beyond just April Snow). Although the hotel had been very popular and considerably upscale in its heyday, what was left seemed to be a ghost of a place with very few people and the strong stench of fish everywhere. Our group visited the room where some of the pivotal scenes with Bae Yong Joon’s character was filmed. Outside of the elevator stands a huge mural sized picture from the movie, which is followed by a wall of visitors’ notes outside the room. As we entered the room, there was a huge life size figure banner of the actor and a case of items that the characters used in the scenes in that room. When the tour was more popular, they used to play the scenes from that movie in the room. I suppose all these highlights were meant to allow visitors to feel and live vicariously through the characters, but I felt like it was very odd because if I wanted to relive those scenes, I would have wanted it to be preserved in a manner that the actual characters encountered. Perhaps the uncleaned leftover food and messy sheets of  previous tenants of the room didn’t help. It just all felt very unnatural yet interesting because somehow it must have been a memorable experience to those who had visited many years before as well as the previous night. However, I do somewhat wonder if the hotel would be in such a shabby condition if it had never had any involvement with the film in the first place.

We also visited the pension where Winter Sonata was filmed, a café that involved a scene from the drama. It looked quite ordinary at first aside from its beautiful view of the sea but it was anything but. Most of the café was mostly preserved as one would encounter it if one were in the drama, but then it was disturbed by the washed out photos from the drama randomly placed everywhere as a strange reminder of its significance. After coming out of the café, I noticed how out of place it looked relative to the more ragged areas around it. However, even as we were leaving, a man was painting the railings on the bridge to the café. Like the hotel, the café appeared to have created a sandstorm of traffic and livelihood during its popularity but left behind a mess in its dust, leaving the area now in need for redevelopment that it wouldn’t have needed otherwise.

We also visited a cave in Samcheok. Although the tour was only about an hour, it felt endless in the sense that the cave seemed to go on forever. Many of the points of interest (as deemed by the signs) were given character, such as the bridge to hell, confession bridge, the fountain of life and demon’s claw among many others. As I passed these signs, it created a timeline of thoughts that was unique to me in relation to this particular place. I only have a few pictures of the cave due to the low lighting, which is done intentionally for the preservation of the cave physically and as an elusive sight as well.

After our trip to Kangwon, we watched the movie The Power of Kangwon Province, which featured many of the types of places we visited over that weekend. I didn’t particularly enjoy the film.  It may have been because my personal taste enjoys more aesthetically pleasing cinematography paired with more progressive character development. However, it allowed my mind to focus less on the characters and on the scenery. It was very serene and, to an extent, simple. There were many scenes of being in transit and hiking/walking, which is a large portion of what our time was spent doing. It was somewhat like the Kangwon province that we had seen yet just untouched by the commercialized influence (perhaps from Seoul?). There wasn’t celebrity product placement everywhere. The characters went to Kangwon to reflect on their own lives and to escape Seoul, which was made possible by the liberating and natural environment, free of busy-ness and distractions. It was just nature, in its truest form.

We spent the first week in Korea visiting Kyongbok Palace, Insadong, Seodaemun Prison and the National Museum of Korea. In the bustling and ever-changing, modern Seoul, there is a feeling of time being frozen in these historic places. These places are an interesting contrast to the modern buildings of Seoul.

Kyongbok Palace was surprisingly large, and today there are around 30 buildings in existence. However, in the past, there were around 500 (WOA!). Stepping into the palace compounds, there is an interesting juxtaposition between the palace and the surrounding city area. After an exciting taxi ride, the palace grounds were quiet, and felt empty because they were so large. I was constantly looking up to see the roofs of the palace buildings. The guide explained to us the significance of the type of roof and color, the similarities and differences between Korean, Chinese, and Japanese traditional roofs. We were also shown the Queen’s and King’s separate quarters. During the day males and females were not supposed to enter each other’s quarters. The palace grounds also used to house the Government General Building, the seat of the Japanese colonial government. In class, we discussed the act of colonial mimicry and gender as a “performance.” We applied these ideas to a film about the Japanese colonial era named “Modern Boy.” However, it is interesting to wonder about the actions of the males and females in ancient times. Being segregated most of the day, what of their actions in their gender roles were a “performance”?

As we toured the Palace we also saw a couple of people dressed in traditional guard uniforms and hanbok, a traditional Korean dress. In class, we discussed the idea of “staged authenticity”—a staging of local culture to create resemblance of authenticity for tourists. We were in the front region, the place that the tour guide wanted us to see. The back region is the area closed to outsiders; the place where the people dressed in the traditional garb would put on their normal clothing, the place which would discredit the performance out front. Every tourist area has a front and back region, and while being taken in by the beauty and excitement of the traditional, it is easy to forget about the back region.

As a “tourist”, or a person who follows and keeps into a place where one is brought, I went with the group to Insadong. Insadong was a bustling town full of shops and stalls containing traditional trinkets or foods. I tried some traditional North Korean dumplings with Shoko. They were very tasty! We were also entertained at a stall which made candy in front of us by pulling honey, creating thousands of little strings that somehow magically formed into the shape of a cocoon-like candy.

The tours emphasized Korea’s transformation. Cheonggyecheon, a stream which was once a dumpsite, was transformed into a nice park. In the National Museum of Korea a soy sauce jar is now a priceless treasure. Seodaemun Prison also emanates the idea of Korea under transformation from a suppressed nation to a nation remembering the past, but constantly expanding and moving forward. Seodaemun Prison was an eye-opener, showing the great pain that so many Koreans have felt, yet the strength and bravery they faced their oppression with. From a young teenage girl to and old man, patriotism moved them to be willing to die to know a country of their own. However, when we exited the prison, the outside felt unbelievably peaceful. The hybridization of the prison grounds transformed them into a peaceful space for the locals to go for on walks. It was amazing and kind of beautiful.display.

In class we learned to listen to what tour guides tell us and choose to show us, and to wonder at the unsaid. In the National Museum of Korea, we only had an hour to see the artifacts the guide chose as the most important. One of the things she showed us was the Pensive Bodhisattva. It was in a separate room. Joann asked why it was so special and in a separate room. The guide said that it was because the Bodhisattva was one meter tall (enormous compared to other Pensive Bodhisattvas), it was considered a national treasure. Other things she showed us always seemed a little larger, or placed in prominent parts of the rooms to catch more attention. The last important artifact that was shown was the previously mentioned soy sauce jar. It was beautiful white porcelain—once a normal household item, now a priceless treasure. It is interesting to wonder what in the future will become a priceless treasure shown to others.

Urban modernity. That was my initial impression of the city of Seoul subsequent to leaving Incheon Airport in South Korea. Countless skyscrapers and contemporary buildings loomed over the city, with glittering neon lights serving as stark yet lovely contrasts to the raven dark night sky. The traffic on the roads was overwhelming, with cars packed tightly next to each other like pieces of sardines. The streets our bus whizzed by were vibrant and bustling, adorned with assorted vendors and restaurants selling a variety of exotic cuisines. During the entire journey to Ewha University, where our group will be staying at for the next month, I kept my eyes resolutely glued to the scenes outside my window, anticipating what sight might appear next. The city seemed so energetic and full of life that I wondered if I would be able to explore all it has to offer in the span of four weeks.

However, although at first glance Seoul seemed to be an epitome of modernity and innovation, certain prominent historical locations continue to be crucial landmarks within the city. For instance, Kyongbokgung, one of the largest royal palaces built during the Choson era, is representative of the traditional architectural style utilized during its time. It was truly quite intriguing to observe the juxtaposition between the traditional Choson architecture of the palace and the various modern skyscrapers and office buildings surrounding it. It almost felt as if the palace still belongs in the Choson period, while its surroundings continue to shift and alter with time. There were also other local sites, such as Buddhist temples and shrines, which stood out amongst all the other contemporary buildings. However, I felt as if they add another layer of depth and intrigue to the city of Seoul. It demonstrates how, despite its modernity and technological advances, the city still perceives certain traditional values to be incredibly important.

Finally, the bus arrived at Ewha University, and my first impression of the campus was of how beautiful it seemed. Various Western style architecture adorn different parts of campus, with the famous “ECC” complex situated right next to the entrance of the school. The “ECC” complex, otherwise known as the Ewha Campus Center, was designed by the French architect Dominique Perrault. The campus center possesses glass windowpanes along the sides and extends underground. Once again, I was intrigued by the contrast of this incredibly modern architecture with the other Western-influenced buildings on campus. I felt as if, in its unique way, Ewha University encompasses some of the exquisite traits of spaces within Seoul, in that both modern and traditional buildings are compacted in one particular area.

It was only the first day, and I only caught fleeting glances of Seoul, but already I was ecstatic to explore all that the city has to offer. With so many sites to visit and places to discover, this month seems almost too short. I cannot wait for this experience of a lifetime to begin and to share my enthusiasm with family and friends.